The weather cooperated today so I got to head to Coopers for an afternoon of bouldering. My goal was to send all of the problems on the one boulder at roadside rocks. In this mission i was almost successful. I managed to send all the problems except the V4 sit-start. I spent a good hour and a half trying to figure out the beta for the sequence to get up to the side-pull from which it gets easy (where the V2 stand-start begins). In the process of repeated attempts I managed to tear through two pads and get a water blister on a third. and still didn't get my ass more than two feet off the ground. Next time hopefully I'll get it when I'm fresh and have some idea of how to do it.
After I managed to tear myself away from that problem I made it down to a really cool V3 that I was too burned out to send yet today. Hopefully next time I'll send both of these.
Have a good week, I know today was a good start for mine.
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Saturday, March 29, 2008
To Re-Sole or to Buy New
No climbing this weekend, only a lot of thinkin' about next weekends trip to Cooper's. Though, the weather doesn't look that great for Saturday, it should get better cause Old Man Winter is one more crappy weekend from getting his ass kicked. In the process of sending V4 in my mind I have realized that both of my good pairs of shoes have holes starting in the right toes.
1.) I need to stop dragging that damn toe when going for longer moves.
2.) I need more pairs of good (shoes i like) to have when I have to send others back to be re-soled.
~On a side note anyone who needs a pair size 5.5US climbing shoes...I'm still trying to unload that damn pair of slippers (20 bucks).
As for this weekend, I am headed to Cooper's hopefully w/ some company from BU. I would like to head down into the Tilted Tree Area again with them. There are some boulders in the back that I really want to put my hands onto. These routes include V0 - V3 problems. Also, while in the TTA I would like to make it to Moby's Dick Arete (V3) and send that rig as well. Though if my company isn't interested in the TTA I know I'll find other rocks to keep me occupied. In the Upper Rock City area I would like to work on some of the fun "crack climbing." As for Roadside Rocks there are so many problems there I have my eyes on a certain V4 as well as I'd love to repeat 2 of the v2's there.
No matter what happens I can't wait for this fun to take off on Saturday. Though, it will get cut short because I have to be back in Moorefield by ~4:30 for the pageant that I have to be at. But then again, it is only the first trip to Coopers this summer. I'll be sure to let you all know how it goes, as well as update my account on www.thecrag.com (on a quick aside, I have updated this site for my recent trip to the Red).
Climb On
1.) I need to stop dragging that damn toe when going for longer moves.
2.) I need more pairs of good (shoes i like) to have when I have to send others back to be re-soled.
~On a side note anyone who needs a pair size 5.5US climbing shoes...I'm still trying to unload that damn pair of slippers (20 bucks).
As for this weekend, I am headed to Cooper's hopefully w/ some company from BU. I would like to head down into the Tilted Tree Area again with them. There are some boulders in the back that I really want to put my hands onto. These routes include V0 - V3 problems. Also, while in the TTA I would like to make it to Moby's Dick Arete (V3) and send that rig as well. Though if my company isn't interested in the TTA I know I'll find other rocks to keep me occupied. In the Upper Rock City area I would like to work on some of the fun "crack climbing." As for Roadside Rocks there are so many problems there I have my eyes on a certain V4 as well as I'd love to repeat 2 of the v2's there.
No matter what happens I can't wait for this fun to take off on Saturday. Though, it will get cut short because I have to be back in Moorefield by ~4:30 for the pageant that I have to be at. But then again, it is only the first trip to Coopers this summer. I'll be sure to let you all know how it goes, as well as update my account on www.thecrag.com (on a quick aside, I have updated this site for my recent trip to the Red).
Climb On
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Finally Some Action
I just got home from a wonderful trip to the Red River Gorge over Easter Weekend. What a time it was. We got down there Thursday night and I learned my first enjoyable saying, "Ohio is the state that God forgot." This will come back later on, just understand both my and Rebecca's hatred for the state of Ohio.
Friday we tried to go to Phantasia wall to climb Creature Feature, Creep Show, and Count Floyd Show. But it was like a river flowing down the face containing these climbs so we had to head somewhere else, we ended up at Pistol Ridge. There I had a great day, flashing a 5.9+ and a .10a, also getting the onsight on a .7 and a .8. The .7 I started with a completely unnecessary sit-start, heel-hook. But none-the-less it was fun. After Pistol Ridge we headed down to Roadside crag. There I hopped on a 5.9- which was kinda cool, just a hell of a lot longer than I was able to climb at the end of the day.
Saturday, we went to check Phantasia again, and it still soaking wet. From there we went to Military wall which we had both climbed before. I finally got the red-point on Moonbeam (5.9) and then decided to climb Stay Left a short .10a. If I hadn't messed up the sequence between the first and second bolts, I would have sent that rig. But I didn't get up it clean. Also, there was this really nice/cold puddle of water in a very crucial hold. Still, it was a weird climb that maybe someday I will try it again and send it clean. Also, while at Military Rebecca and I re-named Moonbeam and Sunshine to Ohio and New Jersey. These new names are very fitting to the climbs because nobody who climbs them likes them, just like no-one who goes to Jersey or Ohio actually enjoy themselves.
After Military Wall we headed down to the land of the little people (a.k.a. The Shire). We got there and started out with a really cool .10a, and met some cool people from Michigan who let us use their draws on the neighboring .10b. This climb lead me to really appreciate my belayer. After clipping the second bolt the route got interesting and I fell a few feet, nothin major, just a little dangle. Then I climbed the rest of the way to the last bolt, and all i had left were the ~10-12 feet to the anchors. I was climbing on tiny crimpers and terrible feet (for the most part), evidentally I was usin all of the holds that everyone else skipped over for better holds. Never-the-less I lunged for the ledge to clip the anchors from. It looked like a large flat ledge from below, My right hand hit it, it was a damn sloper where I grabbed, in my pumped state there was no holding on "Rebecc, I'm coming OFF" I screamed. Down I went for a long 20+ foot ride. When I got myself collected I asked the people from Michigan how girly my scream was, to which Ryan replied I think I screamed louder than you. Anywho, I jumped back up, and finished the route off. After this fiasco I climbed a .8 that I started inside a cave with a cool heel hook and what not, just super cool. Then I climbed a cool 5.7 that was neat.
The last day, was so damn cold. We went up to Pebble Beach, and I climbed this REALLY COOL 5.9+ that was a ton of fun and I would have onsighted it if my hands handn't frozen solid. I really plan on going back to this wall because there was also this really sweet looking .10b that I want to hop on.
Overall it was a great trip. I can't wait to get my hands back on some real rock again. Cooper's is coming up in a week or two, and there are always my trips to the New this summer. Overall it was a great start to the summer.
Friday we tried to go to Phantasia wall to climb Creature Feature, Creep Show, and Count Floyd Show. But it was like a river flowing down the face containing these climbs so we had to head somewhere else, we ended up at Pistol Ridge. There I had a great day, flashing a 5.9+ and a .10a, also getting the onsight on a .7 and a .8. The .7 I started with a completely unnecessary sit-start, heel-hook. But none-the-less it was fun. After Pistol Ridge we headed down to Roadside crag. There I hopped on a 5.9- which was kinda cool, just a hell of a lot longer than I was able to climb at the end of the day.
Saturday, we went to check Phantasia again, and it still soaking wet. From there we went to Military wall which we had both climbed before. I finally got the red-point on Moonbeam (5.9) and then decided to climb Stay Left a short .10a. If I hadn't messed up the sequence between the first and second bolts, I would have sent that rig. But I didn't get up it clean. Also, there was this really nice/cold puddle of water in a very crucial hold. Still, it was a weird climb that maybe someday I will try it again and send it clean. Also, while at Military Rebecca and I re-named Moonbeam and Sunshine to Ohio and New Jersey. These new names are very fitting to the climbs because nobody who climbs them likes them, just like no-one who goes to Jersey or Ohio actually enjoy themselves.
After Military Wall we headed down to the land of the little people (a.k.a. The Shire). We got there and started out with a really cool .10a, and met some cool people from Michigan who let us use their draws on the neighboring .10b. This climb lead me to really appreciate my belayer. After clipping the second bolt the route got interesting and I fell a few feet, nothin major, just a little dangle. Then I climbed the rest of the way to the last bolt, and all i had left were the ~10-12 feet to the anchors. I was climbing on tiny crimpers and terrible feet (for the most part), evidentally I was usin all of the holds that everyone else skipped over for better holds. Never-the-less I lunged for the ledge to clip the anchors from. It looked like a large flat ledge from below, My right hand hit it, it was a damn sloper where I grabbed, in my pumped state there was no holding on "Rebecc, I'm coming OFF" I screamed. Down I went for a long 20+ foot ride. When I got myself collected I asked the people from Michigan how girly my scream was, to which Ryan replied I think I screamed louder than you. Anywho, I jumped back up, and finished the route off. After this fiasco I climbed a .8 that I started inside a cave with a cool heel hook and what not, just super cool. Then I climbed a cool 5.7 that was neat.
The last day, was so damn cold. We went up to Pebble Beach, and I climbed this REALLY COOL 5.9+ that was a ton of fun and I would have onsighted it if my hands handn't frozen solid. I really plan on going back to this wall because there was also this really sweet looking .10b that I want to hop on.
Overall it was a great trip. I can't wait to get my hands back on some real rock again. Cooper's is coming up in a week or two, and there are always my trips to the New this summer. Overall it was a great start to the summer.
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Boulderin' Day
So i was driving the other day and i heard this song "Walk Away" by Ben Harper...and i figured it would makin a nice climbing song, so i have changed some words. So the following lyrics are to that tune.
Oh no - here comes that sun again
And means another day without you my friends
And it hurts me to crimp these micro edges
And it hurts even more to have to climb these stubby rocks
And it's so hard to do and so easy to say.
But sometimes - sometimes
You just have to boulder all day - boulder all day
With so many bolts to clip in my life, why do i worry about one?
Those bolts put the happy in my ness, they put the good times in my fun.
And it's so hard to do and so easy to say.
But sometimes - sometimes
You just have to boulder all day - walk away and head for the Red.
I've been pullin' so hard on local choss
I keep thinking this bouldering will prepare me for my bolts.
And once again that rusing sun is droppin on down
And once again, those shiny bolts, are nowhere to be found.
You'd think enough problems would satisfy the bolt clipping urges,
but it seems I only want to be locked off to those lovely chains.
It's said time will make all this go away
but it's time that has taken my tomorrows and turned them into yesterdays.
And once again that rising sun is droppin' on down
And once again, those shiny bolts, are nowhere around.
And it's so hard to do and so hard to say.
But sometimes, sometimes you just have to boulder all day, walk away and head for the Red.
You just have to boulder away - boulder away - boulder away.
You just have to boulder away, boulder away, turn and run to the Red.
Enjoy.
Oh no - here comes that sun again
And means another day without you my friends
And it hurts me to crimp these micro edges
And it hurts even more to have to climb these stubby rocks
And it's so hard to do and so easy to say.
But sometimes - sometimes
You just have to boulder all day - boulder all day
With so many bolts to clip in my life, why do i worry about one?
Those bolts put the happy in my ness, they put the good times in my fun.
And it's so hard to do and so easy to say.
But sometimes - sometimes
You just have to boulder all day - walk away and head for the Red.
I've been pullin' so hard on local choss
I keep thinking this bouldering will prepare me for my bolts.
And once again that rusing sun is droppin on down
And once again, those shiny bolts, are nowhere to be found.
You'd think enough problems would satisfy the bolt clipping urges,
but it seems I only want to be locked off to those lovely chains.
It's said time will make all this go away
but it's time that has taken my tomorrows and turned them into yesterdays.
And once again that rising sun is droppin' on down
And once again, those shiny bolts, are nowhere around.
And it's so hard to do and so hard to say.
But sometimes, sometimes you just have to boulder all day, walk away and head for the Red.
You just have to boulder away - boulder away - boulder away.
You just have to boulder away, boulder away, turn and run to the Red.
Enjoy.
Monday, March 10, 2008
Speck on a Speck in a Speck
I'm currently engorged in this wonderful book called "The Fabric of the Cosmos" by Brian Green. I have previously read his text "The Elegant Universe." But this new book is by far one of the most mind opening texts i have read.
The most recent chapter has discussed the idea as a universe as a whole. From my minimal understanding this is what has consumed my thoughts for the past two days. The earliest stars formed around 2 billion years after the big bang (14.8 billion years ago), so that means these stars formed about 12 billion years ago. So by using the speed of light, we can only see stars that emitted their light towards "earth" (I put this in quotes because it has yet to be formed) and are within this 12 billion light-year radius of where earth will be. So this means that if the universe is less than 24 billion light-years in diameter we can see everything. BUT, if the universe is large than this (which it is now because the universe has been expanding since the big bang) then we can never see the outter most galaxies in the universe.
On a side-note, in the first 0.00000000000000000000000000000000001s after the big bang the universe expanded by a factor of 10^100 times. This to me is just an amazing, no astronomical concept to wrap my head around.
All-in-all this makes me really respect Bill Nye when he said "we are nothing more than a speck on a speck in a speck." It just seems that our "We are humans so we are the center and at the top" mentality is dumber than i ever thought before.
Yeah, that's all i have tonight.
The most recent chapter has discussed the idea as a universe as a whole. From my minimal understanding this is what has consumed my thoughts for the past two days. The earliest stars formed around 2 billion years after the big bang (14.8 billion years ago), so that means these stars formed about 12 billion years ago. So by using the speed of light, we can only see stars that emitted their light towards "earth" (I put this in quotes because it has yet to be formed) and are within this 12 billion light-year radius of where earth will be. So this means that if the universe is less than 24 billion light-years in diameter we can see everything. BUT, if the universe is large than this (which it is now because the universe has been expanding since the big bang) then we can never see the outter most galaxies in the universe.
On a side-note, in the first 0.00000000000000000000000000000000001s after the big bang the universe expanded by a factor of 10^100 times. This to me is just an amazing, no astronomical concept to wrap my head around.
All-in-all this makes me really respect Bill Nye when he said "we are nothing more than a speck on a speck in a speck." It just seems that our "We are humans so we are the center and at the top" mentality is dumber than i ever thought before.
Yeah, that's all i have tonight.
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Wrong Again
Well, yeah, weather, YOU STINK...
Well, another weekend of climbing didn't happen. Hopefully the weather cooperates with Rebecca and myself for an upcoming weekend of climbing at the Red.....if it doesn't so help me, i'm gonna hunt down Old Man Winter's and kick his ass.
Until then i will continue lifting, and starting tomorrow there will be a nice cardio regiment added to my daily routine. Hopefully this will continue to weight loss and getting me in better shape to kick ass on the rocks this summer.
Check ya later
Well, another weekend of climbing didn't happen. Hopefully the weather cooperates with Rebecca and myself for an upcoming weekend of climbing at the Red.....if it doesn't so help me, i'm gonna hunt down Old Man Winter's and kick his ass.
Until then i will continue lifting, and starting tomorrow there will be a nice cardio regiment added to my daily routine. Hopefully this will continue to weight loss and getting me in better shape to kick ass on the rocks this summer.
Check ya later
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Cooper's Rocks
Well, my attempted climbing expedition was shut down today by "the man." It seems that the gated community we call Cooper's Rocks is not yet open for customers. I do not require them to give me camping spaces, or even ask them to plow the roads, i only ask them to open their gates here and there. Heaven forbid someone wishes to enjoy that beautiful area in the winter or at night for that matter.
Ohh well, I would hope you have figured out that when I got off exit 15 from I-68W today, there was a nice big gate saying "ROAD CLOSED" today. I would have gotten out and hiked in, but this was the first gate, leaving me like 6-8 miles to actually get to the climbing areas and i just didn't feel like doing that and possibly getting fined for entering the park when it was closed.
So with that, and no great stories of climbing to share, I will take my leave. I do promise that one day soon I will make it back to the Tilted Tree Corridor.
Ohh well, I would hope you have figured out that when I got off exit 15 from I-68W today, there was a nice big gate saying "ROAD CLOSED" today. I would have gotten out and hiked in, but this was the first gate, leaving me like 6-8 miles to actually get to the climbing areas and i just didn't feel like doing that and possibly getting fined for entering the park when it was closed.
So with that, and no great stories of climbing to share, I will take my leave. I do promise that one day soon I will make it back to the Tilted Tree Corridor.
Saturday, March 1, 2008
Back Online
Finally got internet again, so i will be updating my blog again.
o
What you have missed.
In the climbing world, I am planning on going to Cooper's Rock this Sunday (Mar. 2) and climbing outside again. Then next weekend I will be going to the New for 2 days of clippin' bolts. Hopefully these two days will give me a nice tune up and let me know what i need to do make it easier to achieve my goal this summer of climbing an 11.a or harder along with a V5.
In the wrestling world, he season is finally over. We had a great season, we won 3 matches and two of those together combined to win a tri-meet. Then as for the post-season at the PVC conference tournament we didn't place any wrestlers, but at the Regional Tournament we managed to get two guys who placed 6th. Not high enough to make it to the state tournament, but high enough to make them happy. Now we are lifting 5 days a week after school and there are 4 returning wrestlers there as well as 4 new guys who will be on the team next year.
I'll be sure to update this after I send hard this weekend.
Check Ya Later
o
What you have missed.
In the climbing world, I am planning on going to Cooper's Rock this Sunday (Mar. 2) and climbing outside again. Then next weekend I will be going to the New for 2 days of clippin' bolts. Hopefully these two days will give me a nice tune up and let me know what i need to do make it easier to achieve my goal this summer of climbing an 11.a or harder along with a V5.
In the wrestling world, he season is finally over. We had a great season, we won 3 matches and two of those together combined to win a tri-meet. Then as for the post-season at the PVC conference tournament we didn't place any wrestlers, but at the Regional Tournament we managed to get two guys who placed 6th. Not high enough to make it to the state tournament, but high enough to make them happy. Now we are lifting 5 days a week after school and there are 4 returning wrestlers there as well as 4 new guys who will be on the team next year.
I'll be sure to update this after I send hard this weekend.
Check Ya Later
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