Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Ohh The Beautiful New

What a wonderful weekend I had. Pulled into Roger's on Thursday night, and spent the evening drinking and sitting on the porch chatting w/ a group of very experience/well traveled climbers...Friday morning...we headed down into Beer Wall (which was completely dry) and started the fun w/ Daisy Cutter (5.7) and then moved up trough several 8's and finished the day on the great route St. Pauli Girl. This 10c kicked the shit outta me last time i tried it....but not friday. I did take on it 2 times...but no falls, and no major freak-outs. By far one of the best routes I have ever climbed.

Saturday, we went down into Sandstonia, to Tatoo wall. It is a beautiful, slightly overhanging, tall wall; and i'm not the only one who things that. There were probably like 50 or more people down there climbing on saturday. so we stayed on the short entrance wall. I started on a 5.8 called Assman, or so i thought. Really i ended up climbing a 5.6. then after getting up the correct route next, i jumped on a 9+ called Celtic Sun. This route was very hard for a 9. A lot of the holds were blind. You had no idea they were there w/out someone telling you where they were. Super scary at one point (or atleast i thought). Then we finished on an "easy" 5.6 which had some super reachy moves.

After a while climbing the fun part of the day began where we sat in the river and drank beer. It was nice......till the rangers showed up.......don't worry, no major problems.

Sunday we got up early, packed up camp...then went to Tudor's Biscuit world..and then headed down to Bridge Buttress. Only had time for one...and that was a winner we picked...Chockstone 5.9 trad lead...and Gordon lead it beautifully then the other two top roped it...then i lead it on Gorodon's gear. It was a climb i have been waiting to lead....just absolutely beautiful. Spent some time at the curx sequence strapping on my balls and then pulled the roof and finished it out...just wonderful.

What a great trip, now i just need to lay back for a while and save some money cause i'm broke now. At least it was worth it.

Climb on.

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